Fitting Method


WATCH: overview of fitting:

STEP 1 - mark and drill your boat

STEP 2 - strap Collar to your boat and mark the Collar

STEP 3 - remove Collar and hammer in plates

STEP 4 - glue the plates inside your Collar and let dry

STEP 5 - strap Collar back to boat and fix with screws

Video links and full colour written instructions are sent to you.

Detailed instructions & fitting video links via email.
Detailed instructions & fitting video links via email.




  • Kapten Boat Collar; 2 long lengths, 20-30cm longer than your boat's overall measurement.
  • Stainless steel, pan-head, self-tapping screws.
  • Stainless steel washers.
  • Tef-Gel anti-corrosive cream, 30g tube.
  • Watertight rubber dome washers.
  • Aluminium internal plates.
  • 2 drill bits.
  • 1 driver bit.
  • 2 x KBC Logo stickers
  • Small pack of brochures & cards
  • Detailed step-by-step written instructions.
  • Detailed step-by-step video link.
  • T-Rex Power adhesive (boats over 4.3m)
  • External fixings (boats over 3.5m, except tenders)
  • Flat bar external fixings (boats over 4.8m, generally)


A few common tools:

  • Pointy nose pliers.
  • Measuring tape & pen.
  • Power drill.
  • Carpenter's wood panel saw or electric bread knife.
  • 4" or 6" Angle Grinder or planer.
  • 1 x fine flap disc for 4" / 6" angle grinder/sander.
  • Cartridge glue gun.

Adhesive & corrosion product links available (click on bold words above)


We don't want you to have any corrosion or water leaking issues when you install your Collar, so you'll receive only the best fixings & hardware. This method is proven, and with proper maintenance, you'll be enjoying your Collar for at least a decade.

Our fitting methods have been approved by several Marine Surveyors, AMSA [Australian Maritime Safety Authority] and we've also had a Ship Inspector, a Naval Engineer & several Naval Architects give it the thumbs up.

The nylon dome washers (better than ones used on tin roofs) hold the Tef-Gel in place, providing protection and a flexible, water-tight seal.

fit their own Boat Collars
Squirting glue behind plates.
Squirting glue behind plates.


Liquid Nails is the only one we recommend or cover with warranty as it chemically bonds to the foam - (think melting together with the foam) - so the foam actually tears before the glue will ever let go - and it takes a LOT for the foam to tear.

Sikaflex on the other hand will stick to the Collar, but under pressure it will peel off the Collar, leaving an almost perfect impression of the foam on its surface.

Therefore, only Liquid Nails Original (or its brother, Parfix), should be used to glue in the internal plates.

The full-length is a major feature that makes KBCs work as well as they do. #1. It turns down the spray, for dry rides. #.2 It produces bow lift, to protect against nose-diving. #3. It provides maximum overall buoyancy.#4. IMPORTANT: if a Collar stops short (is not full length) on a chine fitting, 'green' water can get on top of it during a turn, which has the potential to make it dig in and flip the boat. A proper-length Collar does the opposite, allowing the tightest, most level turns possible.

No, because all screws are coated with Tef-gel, an amazing creamy substance that remains tacky for years, to keep a protective barrier between the stainless steel screws & your aluminium hull.

The Collar itself is fitted tight against your hull and is non-corrosive, being foam. If you use your boat up very dirty creeks or flood waters, and are concerned about debris wedging against your hull, you can run a strip/bead of Sikaflex or silicon around the Collar to seal it, if you want.

Regarding painted boats; factory painted or boats that have been prepped and painted with quality marine paint, won't have a problem with a Boat Collar being fitted. BUT, if you have a hull that's painted cheaply, like with house paint, that was also poorly prepared, it's almost guaranteed the paint will deteriorate and allow water to sit behind the paint and cause corrosion.

Yes, absolutely. Most Collars will fit underneath side pockets, but if the side pocket covers the fixing area, a small pilot hole is required to be drilled through the side pocket (about 12mm diameter). This allows for the long drill bits to pass through, allowing you the right angle etc on the screw heads.

You'll only have to lift your main floor if the floor is 40mm or more above the chine line (side plate meets bottom plate). Most tinnies have the floor sitting just above the chine bar, so doesn't need removing.

If your floor is sealed and/or can't be removed, and is higher than 40mm - you can either;

  1. Raise the Collar so the bottom fixing sits just above your floor.
  2. Use external fixings to anchor the Collar below your floor.
  3. Or, you may be eligible for the new Chemi-Weld fitting method (only suitable for large boats) that requires no internal fixings. Ask us for more info. 

If your boat is over 4.5m long and have either pressed or flat sides, and is either fibreglass or aluminium - yes, you may be able to glue it or weld it onto the sides of your boat, using our new Chemi-Weld fitting method. Ask us for more info. 



Office: (07) 5441 3636
Mobile: 0423 499 047
58 Arundell Ave Nambour, QLD, Australia 4560.


Australian Patent # 2010201449. American Patent Application # 13/083,588 - Watercraft Accessory.
Marine Safety Innovations Pty Ltd.
ABN # 53 141 908 385
Australian owned & operated since 2010